Simple artistic photo retouching tip and resources

 

Learn photographic Lighting

The trick to doing artistic photo retouching effects is to keep them simple.

In this image, I used an An image from my Organic Vignette package to bring a slight dreamy quality to the image.

I knew what I was looking for when I started, but let me outline the art theory principles behind what I ‘saw’ in my minds eye before I completed the image.

Hue

First, hue I knew that I wanted to blend and tie in the warm yellow skin tones, and the blues/purples of the grooms suit and boutonnière. The dreamlike quality of the image comes from the blended and smudged look of the tonalities so their close relationship in Hue is very important. The clever part of my texture sets is their interrelationships within the close Hue relationships-here that close relationship is yellow to orange, with a vignette in the complementary color of blue. Here is the sample image form the texture set for you to see what it looked like:

Organic Vignette Texture Set by Make Light Real

Luminance

If you notice carefully there is a rim of natural light on the bride’s right cheek – the sunshine was coming through trees near sunset, and the bride and groom had their backs to it. So the overall contrast in the luminance of this photo is not very high – that’s good for applying a lighting effect or texture…because you can trick the viewer more easily. So it’s important to note that I’m starting with an image basically lit by open shade…nice and soft. The Hue of the overlay image is important because I want a unified color theme – but also because it creates a brighter spot of sunlight (of sorts) on her dress. That dapple of bright highlight where her hair ends and the semicircle of her necklace dips rounds out the counterpoint of her smile in the composition.  The rest of the image’s contrast is burned down by the vignette pushing the viewer’s attention to the warm emotional embrace, and the warm sunshine dappled across their embrace.

The simple steps to getting this done in Photoshop is to use a “Hard Light” layer of somewhere between 15-25%.  You want to look to smudge the tones, but not make the texture file in any way prominent to the main  image’s subject matter.

photography lighting instructor teacher

Black and White film Lightroom presets

Black and White film Lightroom presets
A set of three Black and White Lightroom presets to mimic film Contrast management techniques to mimic the tonal response of black and white films

Black and White film Lightroom presets - Click Image to Close

Click to download other free photoshop actions and textures

Read more about the LIGHTSPEED – Adobe Photoshop Lightroom enhanced workflow seminar

Eye of the muse : retouch deconstructed

If you shot this image – would you find something in it?

Image before Retouch

Photo Courtesy of Shane Snyder photojournalist
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Understanding the suggestive power of darkness

Here’s our starter image for this discussion:

How to retouch with textures : original image

here’s our finished image for this discussion:

How to retouch with textures : finished with vignette

Now you’re right that’s not the EXACT same image, but there’s just a moment’s difference – I couldn’t find the un-retouched version.

I did find a smaller resolution version – again the point of contention is the vanishing point in the composition.  You may compose this while you’re shooting – and it may be proper as you’re composing the environmental elements in your image – but what is the compelling ‘moment’ of the image?

professional grade retouching workflow

His EYES!

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A Comparative Look At Catch Lights by Robert Mitchell

Robert Mitchell writes a lovely post at the Canon Digital Photography forums:

Catch lights are often discussed but rarely demonstrated, so I figured I would do some quick demos to illustrate catch lights as well as a few basic concepts of light. This is not a lesson or tutorial so I’ll only mention those concepts but won’t go into detailed explanations.

Here’s the setup. I’m using a 12″ blue ball to simulate the human eye. The background is white seamless and the subject is 4 feet from the background. The single light source was approximately 30 degrees off the camera’s axis and about 20 degrees up. Although 45 degrees is the preferred or common angle it simply can’t be done with an 8 foot ceiling at a distance of 8 feet from the subject. Once I established that 20 degrees was the maximum angle I kept that angle constant and changed the distance from light modifier to subject. Read through the whole post to complete thinking through the image below…

photo softbox Catchlight comparison

Robert Mitchell’s blog has a few more interesting points you might be interested in….

Understanding Contrast part1: Gamma

Welcome to my series on understanding contrast.

Defined by dictionary.com: Understanding defined in the realm of Philosophy.

  1. The power of abstract thought; logical power.
  2. Kantianism. the mental faculty resolving the sensory manifold into the transcendental unity of apperception.

I love Kant’s creative use of verbage: the mental faculty resolving the sensory manifold into the transcendental unity of apperception.

I’m not talking to wimpy vague or basic knowledge of contrast. I’m talking about the pure verb of ‘understanding’=the power, of abstract thought. I want to inspire you into resolving the sensory perceptions of your excited artistic manifold perceptions into the transcendental unity of expression. Let’s get down in the nitty gritty past our misconceptions, half-

Gamma, baby yea! (say it out loud in your sexy Austin Powers voice)

p.98 of Dan Margulis’s Photoshop LAB Color

“The answer to these stimulating questions is the gamma setting. A gamma of 1.0 would mean that the midpoint is exactly halfway between the two extremes, in the opinion of a machine. Most color theoreticians don’t like that structure. They feel, correctly, that human beings perceive more contrast in dark things than in light ones. Therefore, at a gamma of 1.0, the difference between 200R 200G 200B, a very light gray, and 195R 195G 195B will be percieved as a smaller diference than between, say, 100R 100G 100B and 95R 95G 95B. ….This heinous lack of perceptual uniformity, in their view, justifies a fudge factor. The midpoint, they feel, should be defined as a darker grey than the machine would like. ….Therefore, values darker than 128R 128G 128B will be packed closer together than before, and those whose lighter will be further apart. More values are now being devoted to portrayal of dark colors and fewer to light colors….”

We will delve deeper into this topic in Chaper 13….

Well I didn’t start out with ‘this is what contrast is’ because I don’t think you’d get it without wiping away some of the misconceptions that are haunting you and keeping your vision tied up. So let’s get something straight – your eyes don’t see things as they are. Your eyes adjust things to emphasize the shadows.

In sRGB, with it’s larger fudge factor, it’s a darker 54L0A0B. Think about these two numbers, and a surprising secret comes slithering out from under a stone. Neither of these two artifically darkened RGB midtones is as dark as 50L.

Your eyes don’t see things as they are – your eyes adjust things with a midpoint that’s not in the middle creating a gamma of something near 2.2

I think there is a lesson and an observation in the above paragraph and the deeper roots of color theory that go into making the computer systems that we use. First, the observation: “human beings perceive more contrast in dark things that in light ones.” I believe the lesson we need is one in opening ourselves to the transcendental unity of apperception – opening ourselves to the foundation of understanding itself. Another definition of understanding I found says “sympathetically aware of the character or nature of“.

How sympathetically aware are you of your camera’s subjects?

I don’t say ‘Understanding the Darkness to See the Light‘ carelessly or because it’s catchy.  I say it with a firm backing of color theory and the psychological underpinnings of human perception – which we’ll delve into as this series develops.

Finally, the lesson from Gamma that we should take to heart. Our eyes manipulate our surroundings – and so we can feel free to manipulate our images. Maybe so subtly that our eyes assume no manipulation – but hopefully so perceptively that the awareness of our subjects is fully realized.

Introduction to Understanding Contrast Series

First off a tip of the writer’s hat to my college Michael Reichmann who so many times has opened my mind to the underlying reality of photographic image making, I credit his understanding series as a thematic example upon which I will build this series on contrast.

Second, this series is an inspirational and informational introduction to the very powerful workflow action that I will be releasing soon. If you appreciate the thinking in this writing, you will be pleased with the power that is put at your fingertips with this action, and it’s training materials will give you renewed appreciation of this series.

Third, this series is a response to many of the ungrounded and ‘copycat’ threads and questions I see around the internet from time to time. The tendency is to try and reproduce a style or look, instead of digesting how the subject matter interacts with a treatment to produce deeper understanding. Don’t get me wrong this isn’t negative, I learn by copying too, as have artists from all generations. I hope this article fully articulates the full process of deconstruction rather than a few photoshop steps as what I have learned on the backside of copying so that I can create better.

Have you any favorite copycat threads? Post links in the comments and I’ll check them out and discuss in the future contrast posts.